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It's the ultimate in efficiency: Would you like to see a separate category for natural wines? No, they are just wine producers. We get people here saying they only drink natural wines. And my question is: And what do you eat?

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Everything we eat has sulphites. Joselito could say they make the only natural Iberico ham in the world because they cure them with salt and no sulphites. At the end of the day, the main thing is to enjoy a good bottle of wines. The rest is empty talk. You have worked with the same producers for years. Yes, it can happen. But that problem is easily fixed when you taste the wine away from the producer.

I thought they were extraordinary wines when I tasted them at the winery but I bring samples here and taste them away from the winery. I need to know whether the wine will work here and whether my clients will like it. What percentage of your wine list comes from Spain? I always say that we Spaniards have a character problem: I know many producers who started well but they soon relax and raise prices.

Many producers are moved by money rather than passion, unfortunately. How do you see Rioja now? There are small producers there that I like but Rioja is also a great money-making machine, with four or five wineries controlling the business.

What do you think of the new wine categories in Rioja? I am not really familiar with that. These new rules are made by bureaucrats who push for changes that favour the large producers who have all the power in the control boards of the appellations. I believe in the producer. What about sherry and Jerez? I do like the new breed of young producers working in the region now but we must give them time because these are long-term wines.

But these young producers are not neglecting grape growing. We all know what old Sherry wines are like. What are they like? Through an act of faith they can be whatever we want, but for me, old sherries lack emotion. Are there enough cult wines in Spain? Cult wines in this country mean high prices but we should talk about cult producers who believe in what they do. Don't you think Vega Sicilia is a cult producer?

Yes, in the great vintages. They are five super vintages on a par with any other cult producer worldwide. Vega Sicilia is a business and money needs to be made. The owner is not a grape grower who works in the vineyard but someone who makes a wine in a certain style because management dictates such style. The same thing applies to Cvnethey are large financial conglomerates that make a product called wine.

We may like it or not, but they are designer wines.

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Old-style wines were also designer wines? Olarra was a cheap wine, but it has evolved well. And many old wines resemble each other because they are made following the same style. Let's not kid ourselves; grape growing, low yields or painstaking viticulture ways were not a real concern back then.

Yes, because they were excellent winemakers. Which wines give you great pleasure?

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My weakness is Schueller. Bruno plays on a different league. He is already a cult producer, but will people go crazy about his wines? I have clients who only come here to drink Schueller. We have a large allocation, so right now clients can drink all of his wines. Why do you find Schueller so exciting? His wines, his personality. Bruno pioneered low sulphites at the end of the s.

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