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Cederberg wilderness areas of game lodges in cultural history dating site for romance. Moraba is typical of the players here. She is 25 and since leaving school she has never earned any money.
She lives with her mother and three-year-old daughter in a four-room bungalow. She spends the week at home, looking after her family, waiting for the next game.
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Her boyfriend, she says, works down the mine. Most Saturdays he has a shift, so he has never seen her play. It keeps me healthy. When she leaves the Lovelife building, she has a pocketful of condoms, taken from one of the several free dispensers dotted around the place.
HIV infection in South Africa passed critical levels a long time ago.
The facts are terrifying. Almost one in three women aged between 25 and 29, and over a quarter of men between 30 and 34, are living with the virus.
Over the past 20 years, the epidemic has reduced average life expectancy by a decade, to 46 years for men and 51 for women. Most of those who die are aged between 24 and 35, meaning the country loses overeconomically active people every year to the disease. I washed him every day as he lay in bed. It was so painful to watch him die. It was only after he died the doctor said it was HIV.
Few sufferers or relatives admit to HIV; even in death, there is no wish to be tainted by association. And you get on with life. Significantly poorer countries like Uganda and Botswana have proven much more efficient in the adopting of anti-retro-viral drugs. For a decade in Pretoria there was an institutional denial; the official line on HIV prevention included advice such as taking a shower after sex or drinking boiled beetroot juice.
Only in the last year, after Mbeki was ousted by Jacob Zuma in Aprilhas official policy changed. Anti-retroviral drugs are now available. Though, as with most things in this most unequal of nations, much more support is available to those with money. During the apartheid era, the policy of separate development obliged so many Africans to seek work hundreds of miles from their homes.
Patterns of migration have barely changed since democracy arrived here nearly two decades ago. Men still flock from all over South Africa to work in Witbank, staying in hostels in the townships that squat on its outskirts.
In an uncompromisingly macho society casual sex alleviates the loneliness, prostitution is a fact of life, many migrants start second families in their place of employment. Unwittingly, a pattern has taken hold that could not have been better designed to assist the rapid dissemination of a sexually-transmitted virus.
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Whoever turns up first becomes her sexual partner for the next seven nights. After all, we are the nation with a president who has three wives.
Outside the wealthy suburbs of Johannesburg and Cape Town this is a country showing little progress in conquering poverty.
The gap between those at the top and those at the bottom has grown since the end of apartheid. Since the late Nineties, through a combination of media and activism, Lovelife has been busy trying to make people take notice of this simple truth: In short, by offering hope. Everyone knows how HIV is transmitted. Everyone knows unprotected sex is the vehicle. But faced by risk alternatives, they take the lower risk.
As a young woman, if you are at risk of being raped every day, you take protection of a man, never mind his provenance. HIV is not as immediate or pressing a risk as being raped. The way to get someone to use a condom is to show them that tomorrow has the potential to be a little bit better than today. Harrison likens the Lovelife squads to a benevolent gang, offering the idea of association and belonging, serving up quality sport and drama, fun and games to anyone who wants to participate.
HIV prevalence rates among 15 to 24 year olds, although not yet declining, is at least flattening out.